My 737NGX800 Homebuilt Cockpit


A picture progress of my throttle quadrant build

Laying out the drawings on MDF. Drawings can be found on Rudy's site.

Be sure to route these two on opposite sides. Beware of MDF, it is easy to sand but hard on scroll saw blades and will split very easily.

Reverse thrust throttle 1. Small screw holds back the spring.

Micro switch reverse thrust and TO/GA Button. Note routed channel for wires

Reverse thrust setup complete

Note blue/white wires routed to the AT/Disconnect. Indent is made to accomodate nut on reverser

Attaching the main throttle gear, 58 teeth with a diameter of 60mm.

Small screw to hold gear inplace

Setting up the pot gear. 18 tooth with a 20mm diameter

Setting up throttle for calibration

Centering throttle

Lining up throttle stops

Throttle stops in place. Min stop routed for idle switch. Fuel cutoff guide in place.

Made the fuel cutoff slot far too wide but will work.

Fuel cutoff lever in ON position

Fuel Cutoff lever in OFF position

Needed a huge washer here as I cut the slot too wide. Engine 2 will be smaller.

It took many tries to get this guide right.The idea for the guide design comes from Rudy's site.

Throttle Idle switch in place

The fuel cut off lever still needs some rework as it is in rough stage

fuel cutoff switch installed

another view of cutoff switch

reworked fuel cutoff levers

knobs made from kitchen cutting board. The left guide screw is out for finishing touches

Painting the throttle. The reversers still need thier respective knobs.

Essentialy the throttle lever is complete except for the placing of decals

Throttles in place, reversers complete. Paint #2 and add decals. I may beef up the throttle legs as there is is some twist in the mdf

the dust flaps and aluminum covers will finish off the throttle section

Beefed up the throttle legs. They are much stronger and run true now, as there was some twist in the mdf which caused lever collision problems when operating one trhottle at a time.

Both throttles painted, only decals left

Flap Lever: Cut out of 7/16 plywood, small screws holding spring

Opposite side: Small plates hold lever in place

Installing the main gear wheel. I borrow the design for the flap lever from Claus's site.

Rounded the shoulders of the lever retainer and added the top hat, made from kitchen cutting board.

Notice the long bolt in the flap lever. I am hoping it will do double duty as marking device for the flap graduation scale.

Install the 18 tooth gear and pot.Beefed up beneath the flap detentes'. Calibrated the detentes' in FSUIPC4

New design. gears aligned and stops in place.Many thanks to Lloyd Bryor for the ball bearings.

Back side showing pot and new plate

A ball bearing sits in the hole, cover plate attached to hold ball and spring in place.Look closely for detente holes. They must be very small to allow smooth action of the ball.

Notice the spring size. It will fit in behind the ball and cover will hold the two in place.Indents can be seen clearer in this photo.

Cover is in place. Next step is to calibrate. Back to the FSUIPC4 Manual now.

I'm pretty sure I'll modify a new piece to cover more of the flap lever opening, as I changed the flap lever design somewhat.

Close up of flap lever opening

Front view of assembly to date. It starts to look like a throttle.

The parking brake cutout. I borrow the design from Claus's site.

The Avery decal sheets, one set clear transparent, the other white with sticky back

Front view, flash a bit bright

View of the thrust reverser numbers

I may clear coat the flap graduations as I notice a bit of paint wear there

The TO/GA decal was printed on white Avery sticky paper. I didn't clear coat either of them.

I sanded and then cleaned park brake with acetone before applying the decal and clear coats.

Piggy backed 2 switches. One for brake application, the other activates the LED. Tape between two switch contacts to prevent shorting.

Parking Brake On. Foot pulls back contacts. Screw stops the foot when brake released.

Brake on. Led lit from 5v on Bodnar card. Lever works on friction basis with a rubber washer. Idea from Claus and works very well.

Parking Brake Off position. After finding right friction tension, a dab of glue holds the nut in place. Boeing Font can be found on Rudy's site.

Two trim wheels bolted together for sanding of the outside edges. Radius is 115 and the diameter is 230mm. 2 x 12mm mdf with 4mm hardboard sandwiched between the 12mm pieces. Total thickness with glue 30mm

Testing the axis and sanding

Center area has been routed out leaving an outside edge

The white triangle I have determined to be 90mm

Determining the white trianglular area of the trim wheel.

Making the mount for the pulse switch with 18 tooth gear attached.

Gears and pulse switch mounted. I estimate with this ratio, one turn of the trim wheel will equal 4 turns of the pulse switch which will equate to one graduation mark on the trim scale.(fingers crossed)

Front view of the trim setup FO side. I later changed the design, went to a longer bolt and held the gear inplace with a lock nut due to high resistance on the rotary switch.

Sizing up the FO trim wheel. Roughing in aluminum

Approximatly how FO trim wheel will look

Aluminum covers partly mounted.

Pulse Switch and gears in place. I decided to hold the large gear in place with locking nuts as there is a fair bit of resistance on the pulse switch.

Building the throttle foot. 275mm X 12 1/2 inches X 18 inches high.

Sits nicely on it's foot. Made of 12mm MDF

Left one side off for now to allow for access to wiring

Roughing in the aluminum covers. All cut and shaped by hand, so first appearances will look rough.

drawing out the parts for cutting

Placing and shaping

priming with automotive grey

back view

Painting trim wheels Black Cat Black and Kitchen and Bath white

Prepping for 9 volt, Bodnar card and graduation plates and dust covers.

Installing graduation plates and dust covers

Brake light working, toggles installed. Going to redo the toggle plate

Back painted with RAL7011

Front painted with RAL7011, pedestal painted with RAL 9002

A peek at the internals

RAL7011 without camera flash

Pretty much complete, I am happy with the results. Graduation plates in place. RAL7011 with camera flash

Sub micro switches -->

I used 6 of these

Brake light LED --->

One required

Micro switches -->

2 Required - 1 per thrust reverse lever

Pushbutton I used 4 - 2 for ATGA and 2 for AT Dissconnect

2 Required - 1 per trim wheel

Large black Push button

1 Required - Horn Cut Out

Hope you enjoyed the pictures of my 737NGX800 throttle quadrant project to date.
For covering the decals about 4 to 5 quick light misty sprays of clear Krylon to prevent runs, then Used a brush to add final coats of clear coat over the decals. Was tricky at times but results look ok. Parking Brake doesn't release on toe brake push, but that's a project for another day. NOTE: Ed from the netherlands has developed a toe brake release which I will improvise when time permits. So much else to do right now. [I now light the led from the 5v terminal of the Bodnar card. Seems to work quite well but is a temporary measure]. Thanks to information found on Ian's site, I've got a couple of rotary pulse switches from Mouser and am going to try to use them in a Stabilizer Trim Wheel environment. So far things are ok with them, but have yet to fully test them in the NGX. Todate they work fine,but a trim pointer is needed for final touches.
I started this throttle (the actual building of it) at the end of October 2011 and now finishing up some 5 months later in May of 2012. I still have a second coat of 7011 to apply to the aluminum parts, would like to back light it someday also. I still have issues with the speed brake calibrations, still not satisfied with current calibrations so will keep tweaking in that area. I had some issues with button programming so I moved all my wiring to the top end of the Bodnar card so as not to interfere with the FS defaUlts in the 1 -12 button range.

If you find the site a little rough around the edges, please bear with me, as I am just learning the ins and outs of html and CSS,
so most likely there will be errors and the likes

click here to go to the top of the page. May not work for Firefox Users